June 6, 2017
Tōkai Nature Trail: 1697 km from Tokyo to Osaka. Japan's first long-distance trail, connecting national parks since 1969.
June 12, 2017
Eight-hour stopover in Rome. First day of visa-free EU travel for Ukrainians. 10 km, one breakfast, many ancient ruins.
June 13, 2017
Long story short, I'm in Japan. People are cheerful despite the language barrier. Searching for food and hiking gear.
June 14, 2017
Raiding hiking gear shops in Tokyo. Small city blocks that make distances deceptive.
June 15, 2017
Early bird plan failed. Calligraphy museum, Ueno zoo, and meeting a real calligraphy master. Backpack repacked, ready to start.
June 16, 2017
First day on the trail. Mt. Takao to an abandoned campsite. Wind, falling branches, and sleeping under a kitchen roof.
June 17, 2017
12+ hours of hiking. Land leeches, pathfinding through landslides, and a spontaneous decision that pushed my limits.
June 18, 2017
Trail magic at a bus stop. Emergency rations, a thunderstorm, and a night in a mountain hut.
June 19, 2017
First views of Mt. Fuji after morning rain. Knee pain, a lakeside shortcut, and soaking in an onsen at sunset.
June 20, 2017
Meeting Jason, another TSH through-hiker. Fuji temple, ice cave visit, and a traditional inn with no wifi --- perfect.
June 21, 2017
Rain day. Sleeping, eating, reading manga. Resting to my heart's content at Shoji-ko lake.
June 22, 2017
Mountains shrinking to hills, then marshlands. Knee pain in rain, beautiful sunset at Tanuki lake with a Hungarian family.
June 23, 2017
Late start, destroyed trail, bear warnings. Sleeping in a toilet seemed wiser than testing my luck in the dark.
June 24, 2017
Sunrise timelapse of Fuji-san. Construction detours, unfriendly camping, and finding my own spot in the mountains.
June 25, 2017
Hiking through hordes of leeches in the rain. Closed camping led to an invitation to stay in a 'traditional old house' museum.
June 26, 2017
Stairs into clouds, archleeches of high level, silent hill fog and more trail magic.
June 27, 2017
Missed the bus by 5 minutes. Mt. Oyama through young bamboo and spiderweb. Still a day ahead of plan.
June 28, 2017
Rest day in Shizuoka. Legs need recovery, weather forecast says rain. Found a battery charger for my rechargeable batteries.
June 29, 2017
Utoge Falls and steam rising from my shoulders. Best camping so far. A tanuki tried to steal my trash bag.
June 30, 2017
Completely drenched from head to toes. Wild crabs on mountain roads. Local festival with yakisoba and schoolgirls gossiping.
July 1, 2017
Normal tough hiking day. 1300-year-old cypress tree, too big for a photo. Gravelly riverbed camp wasn't ideal.
July 2, 2017
A tanuki stole my sugar. Locals organized a 'rescue party' to find me lodging. Ended up at a temple with futon and miso soup.
July 3, 2017
Morning radio exercises and calligraphy with the temple family. Crossing into Aichi prefecture. Staying three nights to rest.
July 4, 2017
A rest day
July 5, 2017
Second rest day in a row
July 6, 2017
Spectacular ridge views. A local helped find a parking lot to camp. Dinner with sake and delicious home cooking.
July 7, 2017
Toshi-san drove me back to the trail. Forest firefighters said 600km to Osaka. BBQ party with local hikers for a 60th birthday.
July 8, 2017
No steep parts today. Historic salt-trading village with maples. Even the parking has clever door-opening marks.
July 9, 2017
Lost my Koenji hat in an unmaintained section. Mountain cabin turned out to be just a resting spot with a roof.
July 10, 2017
Bats, fighting animals, stuffed humid air and free chocolate. Views of Toyota, Seto, Nagoya from the ridge.
July 11, 2017
Fantastic view from Mt. Miroku. Treated to onigiri and tea. Walked 38km. Don't try this at home, kids.
July 12, 2017
Crazy thunderstorm right above my head. Boots full of water. Gifu city: the symbolic midpoint of my trail.
July 13, 2017
A few rest days, mid-point celebration and castle mountain
July 16, 2017
Hot shadowless valley walk. Camping on a mountain top with no view, 30 minutes from water. Jetboil to the rescue.
July 17, 2017
Splash-test for my tent. Landslide detour, traditional fish restaurant. Free riverside camping with the sound of falling water.
July 18, 2017
Dodging rain like a console game, checkpoint to checkpoint. Got spam at camping. Rented the whole campsite to myself.
July 19, 2017
Dozens of animal protection fences. Yoro falls. Decided to take a train, looking at the ominous sky.
July 20, 2017
Adventurer's cookbook: how to deal with leeches --- salt, fire, spirit, or seal them in a PET bottle. River camping with palm-sized crabs.
July 21, 2017
Rain. Then rain. Then more rain. Puddles growing on sand. Following Tom's road detour instead of mountain trail.
July 22, 2017
Festival in Seki, all accommodations full. Train to Yokkaichi. Tomorrow is my planned rest day anyway.
July 23, 2017
Rest day and a festival in Seki
July 24, 2017
More hiking in the nature and some ninja
July 25, 2017
Hiking and giant tanuki
July 26, 2017
Just another hiking day. Rain, mountains, sore feet. Reached Biwa lake, Japan's 'inland sea'.
July 27, 2017
Late start after chatting with an interesting roommate. Biwa lake views. Small onsen inn, grateful feet.
July 28, 2017
Decided I'm a fish today and don't want to go anywhere. Sitting under inn's roof while rain pours. Being a fish keeps you dry.
July 29, 2017
Reached Kyoto. Arashiyama full of tourists feels weird after weeks in mountains. 25km, mostly flat. Rest day tomorrow.
July 30, 2017
Rest day in Arashiyama
July 31, 2017
Mt. Ponpon to Ryuo-san. Setting tent on the observation deck roof, enjoying night Osaka. Avoiding lightning rods in thunderstorms.
August 1, 2017
Final day. Woke with the sun in wet clothes. Mino-O waterfall marks the end. 47 days, through-hike complete.