10:00 am — TSH, day 17

The day started late again because I had to wait for someone to show at reception /and dry my tent a bit/. While I was slowly preparing for a day some mischievous tanuki stole all my sugar and thus I started to walk a bit frustrated.

The way up Akiha-san under a heavy sun was hard yet pleasant. Warm and dry conifer forest with gusts of cool wind is something nice and a bit forgotten with all these rains.

Shinto shrine buildings with red roofs amid tall cedar forest
Golden torii gate framing a shrine with stone steps
Grand wooden shrine hall with ornate roof and gold accents

11:30 am — Temples

There are several beautiful shrines and temples near Akiha-san. And the one near the top even had a restaurant where I ate my /let’s call it/ lunch.

Stone lantern-lined path through temple grounds with visitor holding umbrella
Two-story wooden temple gate with visitor approaching on stone path

1:30 pm — Akiha dam

It is big and strong and the river down it is clean and beautiful.

Akiha Dam with concrete spillways between forested mountains
Rocky stream flowing through dense green forest gorge
Misty mountain valley view with forested hills at dusk

4:30 pm — Ancient house

Near the end of my today and trail section I passed by a reconstruction /i think/ of an ancient Japanese house.

There is only this one photo of it because just as I arrived the rain started despite any forecasts.

There were still two hours till sunset and about 5 kilometers to camping. Then I put on raincovers and rushed down the road.

Btw, wearing a raincover while hiking with a backpack in a +30C temperature does not save you from getting wet. It only ensures that the inside water and outside water do not mix…

Reconstructed thatched-roof pit dwelling in grassy field

6:30 pm — Wrapping the day: magic, hospitality and temple

By arriving to the camping I found out that there was no one there /oh, what a surprise/ and since there was still some time till darkness and emergency option was obvious I decided to walk for 2km to the nearest village, Kuma. I arrived at the bus stop just 3 minutes before the last bus and thus I skipped it — it is usually a bad idea to jump into a bus you don’t even know where it goes to.

While I was trying to figure out what to do next a passing by car stopped and the driver asked me where I’m going and noted that there will be no more buses today (I was still at the bus stop). After I said that I was looking for a place to sleep a whole rescue operation started. The man went to nearby houses, gathered some family members and they started to call for the options with a lot of laughter. At the camping they said I could not stay and the local teacher prohibited to use a schoolground as a campsite because it’s Monday tomorrow. Another local lady agreed to accommodate one person yet not a gaijin like me. In the end Morita-san (I hope I remember his name correctly) sent me to a local temple.

I was expecting to be allowed to set a tent somewhere at the temple ground. However I was invited inside, provided with a futon, hot bath and luxurious dinner. Keiko-san’s shiromiso soup is the best in Japan! It’s really a shame I can’t speak Japanese so communication with me was hard for Shakuzui family.

P.S. It’s the “rescue party” in the photo and a place in the temple prepared for me.

Group photo of hiker with local Japanese hosts in traditional room
Traditional tatami room with futon and low table prepared for guest