Day 1

First full day that is also a dry day (according to the forecast). Thus waking up on the alarm clock early, so that I am up and downstairs around the start of the breakfast which is 7:30. No pictures of the breakfast by the way, as I forgot the phone in the room.

Started walking around 8:30, took me three hours to get to the trailhead, just to learn that the trail is closed because of the ice. Well, makes sense — yesterday it was raining down here, so it should have been snowing up there. So no climbing the highest mountain today.

Tiled roof shrine with painted murals beside pile of volcanic rocks
Empty wet road curving through green trees under grey cloudy sky
Forested valley stretching toward distant mountains under overcast sky
Small waterfalls flowing over rocks into pool in shaded forest

Oh, and they have clear cut-out times on the trail entrances. So if you ever decide to visit one of them — make sure to check out the times and plan to come in the morning, even if you are not planning to go all the way to the end of the trail.

Hallasan National Park signboard showing prohibited hiking access hours by trail

Then I tried to take a pilgrimage path around the mountain instead, but the trail signs soon led me into a high fence covered with warnings. Not in a Japanese way, but proper, do not enter! The only person I could find around was a guy as fluent in English as I am in Korean. But from what I could understand, I am not supposed to hike this one without a guide. Will double-check with the folks at the hostel. But anyway, going down for now.

Korean pilgrimage trail map sign showing routes in pink and blue
Hand holding wooden pilgrimage trail marker with Korean calligraphy

The bus waiting for me at the bus stop was tempting but no. Even though they don’t let me in the mountains today, I still want to use this dry day for a proper warm-up. So walking-walking down.

Orange tangerine tree laden with fruit beside roadside power lines
Rocky shallow stream flowing between green wooded banks on Jeju